Distant Parallels

The first foreign language I tried to learn was Russian. I studied four years in high school and became good at reading and writing, and in certain controlled academic settings, I could speak fairly well, too. Friends of the family were born in Russia, and one evening at supper we gave conversation a try. The effort was brief as they didn’t want to embarrass me – which to a 16 year-old was highly embarrassing. I never tried again.

Five years after high school, I visited our family’s ancestral villages in Croatia. Croatian is a Slavic language and shares some grammar and like-sounding words with Russian, but it is heavily influenced by its historic (and many) occupiers, so is also laced with Latin grammar on top of the already complex Slav, and carries a huge vocabulary of object names derived from Italian, German, and Turkish. In short, my Russian almost made trying to learn Croatian more difficult. My oh-so-patient cousins struggled with me through tortured sentences frequently interrupted by my pulling a dictionary out of my back pocket. After a couple of weeks, we breathed a collective sigh, and I returned to California.

Three years later I stayed in Firenze for a few winter and spring months, and made a feeble effort to learn the language. I was generously accommodated by an American friend, who, when we were together (which was almost daily), used his fluent Italian while I pretended to understand what was going on. In an effort to catch up, I read comic books. I must have learned something because I vividly recall giving a young Italian couple directions to Palazzo Pitti (a triumph!), and I was able to order coffee and buy groceries, but I had not a clue as to grammar or structure.

At the end of that trip, I revisited Croatia. On the train from Trieste to Dubrovnik, I shared a compartment with a scholar. She spoke literary Croatian, but used a less-educated form so I could understand her, and somehow I did, and somehow we managed a simple conversation.

In Dubrovnik, I was met by a cousin who drove me directly to Zuljana where most of my mother’s family lives. We arrived at Veronika and Marko’s house quite late. Fifteen cousins were waiting in the kitchen. Everyone had questions. I was too excited and too tired to be intimidated, so I answered them. This went on for some time when someone finally said, “You must have been studying these three years! You speak so much better.” I’d not uttered a word since my previous trip. The difference was that at that moment I had simply stepped out of my own way and allowed myself to function at whatever level I could. That sudden facility for Croatian waxed and waned during my three weeks there, but the good days were always better than the last good day.

A year or so later, that same friend from Firenze and I wrote and produced a play in Santa Cruz, California. It was a large-cast affair, and I asked everyone I knew who could walk and talk at the same time to audition. One workmate at Caffe Pergolesi was perfect for the male ingenue, but when I offered him the role, he declined. Then stuff happened, and for reasons later forgotten he did the show anyway.

Last March, the male ingenue – a bit older now – and his wife decided to spend a couple of weeks in Orvieto. In preparing for the trip, he mentioned something about my basically having saved his life all those years ago in Santa Cruz. When he arrived in April, I asked him about that remark; I had no recollection whatsoever of being in any way heroic, then or ever. He explained that he had been depressed. He had turned down the role I offered because he felt that before he could bring anything of value to the community, he had to clean his own psychic house. I apparently read him a riot act, told him that the only way he was going to spruce up his emotional life was in the midst of contributing – he just had to jump in and do it. So he did. We ended up creating a theatre workshop together that lasted three years.

I have a small community of people from various backgrounds, skills, and associations assisting me with my recent journey through the hills and valleys of physical health. I have a larger community of loving friends and familiar strangers greeting me daily with smiles and unspoken encouragement. I have a world-wide community of friends and family who have been present, in one form or the other, throughout these trials and confusions – you, dear reader, are notably among them.

A few weeks ago, one of my far-away friends wrote in response to my recent blog that I seemed “obsessed”. The word played through my mind. Suddenly, today his comment made sense, and all the elements listed above snapped together. I had fallen into the trap I most wanted to avoid from the beginning; I had, on some level, accepted the role of a PD victim. The oft repeated monologue goes, “Oh dear, I must be so careful, the situation is so delicate, what if I’m doing too much or too little, or what if..?”

In the past few days my Italian has gained in fluidity, if not fluency, to a surprising degree (depending somewhat mysteriously on who I am talking to). This happens periodically, and is always connected to my giving up exaggerated notions of having to speak correctly – to my not getting in my own way.

With the health adventure, it’s past time to relax and let the body play through both its problems and triumphs, and most particularly, through its responses to the treatments I’ve been given, however twisty and unpredictable that path might be. As in learning a language, there needs to be space granted, notions dropped – not every grunt, nor every hour, nor every rebound must be perfect or lasting. Every good day tends to be better than the last good day, and so long as that is the case, it will sustain me. This is not unknown territory.

Because I stepped out of my own way, the day was wonderful. Whether I feel better and therefore stronger, or I feel better because I am acting stronger, is a question for the ages. Or perhaps there is no question at all, and it is as the old Shaker song says, “By turning, turning we come ’round right.”

The Cavalcade of Symptoms: A Review

Readers have been clamoring for this critic to publish an update on that unlikely hit, The Cavalcade of Symptoms, PD Edition (producer, director, playwright, and most reliable spectator, David Zarko). I’ve been resisting, having seen (and reviewed) the show several times since its very quiet off-off-off Fringe premiere in 1998. But despite my well-known distaste for pressure from the reading public, my sense of the ridiculous prevailed and today I revisited the spectacle.

A famous quip by Haywood Broun springs to mind: “The play opened at 8:40 sharp and closed at 10:40 dull.” The sentiments expressed by Mr. Broun generally apply, here. There are, however, caveats. Many of them, in fact, but I shall limit myself to two.

One, the play never opens sharp at any time of the day, it rather sneaks up on you. The curtain always rises without warning, catching everyone off guard, sometimes embarrassingly so. What’s more, there is no telling how long a performance will last, nor what acts may be featured.

Two, it closes as spontaneously as it opens. Just when you think the performers have finally found some pizzazz, the lights dim, the curtain falls, and the music ceases, leaving Mr. Zarko – and whomever else may have wandered in to watch – in the dark and peacefully bewildered.

It’s hard to imagine in its present state, but The Cavalcade of Symptoms was going strong as recently as July. Back to back shows all day from wake to sleep (except for naps) kept the producer busy and guaranteed a brisk turnover. There were The Goofies and The Slows doing their famous semi-comic dance routines that always seem a little inebriated (and often are). There were the ever-popular Hoarse Whisperer and his sidekick, Little Miss Malaprop. There were the co-stars Tremor Rightly and Rightly Claw, symptomatically conjoined twins, and the bill was suitably rounded out by Shamus Shuffler and the Four Stumblers. Those and a host of supernumeraries – it was quite a show. But its glory days are waning.

I spent all day as a spectator, endeavoring to observe in as unbiased a manner as possible (especially as Mr. Zarko was always present, and frequently looking my way – I suspect out of boredom) so I could present an accurate report. The Goofies are as ridiculous and disorienting as ever, but take and leave stage with no pattern whatsoever. And as their partner team, The Slows, seldom show up at all, expectations fall on the Rightlies to take up the slack. Tremor is clearly losing his spunk. He wanders on, shakes for awhile, takes a nap, disappears. (The stage manager was several times seen crossing back and forth looking for him, calling his name with increasing irritation.) Claw is only reliably entertaining when Mr. Zarko has grown so restless as to pace between rows, but even then she lacks the old spirit, only does what she has to (according to contract?) and without commitment.

Hoarse Whisperer and Little Miss Malaprop were never really of star quality to begin with, nor are they disciplined performers, but at least when they’re on, they’re on. They come from a different angle each entrance (kudos for creative staging); from stage right, stage left, flown in on pipe three, swung in on a loose line, down the center aisle, up through a trap door. Sometimes they’re in the spotlight, other times upstage in shadow. They show up for cameos lasting no more than thirty seconds, and deliver soliloquies that seem to go on forever. I have to applaud their unflagging commitment to giving the spectator his dollar’s worth.

Shamus Shuffler and his close-harmony backup group, however, start strong but you can rely on their losing energy ten or fifteen minutes into the act. Shamus shuffles and weaves like a pro at first, but soon loses concentration, drifts, and eventually abandons all effort at disambulation, especially when faced with a downwards hill. The Stumblers, deprived of a strong lead, chime in randomly with an equally random riff or two, but may as well retire.

The supernumeraries are a chaotic, directionless mess. They come and go as they please, often leaving the theatre for days at a time. Were I Mr. Zarko, I’d can the lot of them.

I spoke to Zarko during one of the longer periods of the performers’ mystifying inactivity. He’d like to close the show, but says there are contractual arrangements he’s been unable to break. A friend Down Under is looking into loopholes and alternatives, a union rep near Allerona (Italy) has been trying to negotiate a clean closing (that she ominously implies may involve eradication of “certain parasites”), and a local singer/composer has been prodding and poking at the acts, trying to make his point that sticking around for their pathetic paychecks is not worth the damage done to their reputations. All the while a Slovakian cartel has been threatening to “kick their a**es outa da ballpark”. Zarko is seriously considering the offer.

But momentum is a great sustainer, and even as its influence wanes, the company still adheres to the maxim “the show must go on.” And on, and on, and on.

I ask Zarko why he doesn’t let the performers run out of steam on their own, suspend their pay, neglect the bills, and leave the theatre. He looks stunned. “What, and give up show business?”

Report Two – For the Record

Sunday (Yesterday)

Weather crisp and clear, after my morning hike, a brief nap, and lunch, I put a couple of hours into the garden. The lavender needed cutting back, lots of sweeping, a little weeding, the start of putting stuff away for winter. Then I went shopping, hung laundry, and answered email. It wasn’t always easy to keep going, but I did. I’m not sure I could have at the beginning of October.

But it’s not that cut and dry. What follows should not be misconstrued as advice or anything but a report.  I also do not mean to detract from what continues to feel like a slow but steady overall improvement.  But these details may be helpful to some.

First, some background.

May & June

My doctor recommended Madopar (levodopa + benserazide) after trying a couple of other non-levodopa medications that disagreed with me. I was in the middle of rehearsals for Colloquia, and didn’t want to risk further side-effects, so delayed taking it until after the show opened. I jumped the gun a bit, and took my first, very small, dose on the morning of opening. Within an hour I felt as if I’d been binge-drinking the night before. When I rose for an unanticipated curtain call that evening, I was reeling. Several of my less-than-shy friends (none of them are at all shy, come to think of it) told me later that I looked drunk.

Drunkenness never really went away so long as I took the drug, and any reduction of symptoms was subtle. Medical professionals suggested that I should be taking increasingly higher doses. When I tried, symptoms seemed to worsen and the drunkenness became embarrassing.

July

Early in the month, I began homeopathic and bioenergetic treatments with Dr. Fritz. I was still drunk, (though had grown a bit used to it) so it was suggested I take a break from the Madopar. I asked my doctor, he agreed.

August & September

Over the next several weeks I began to feel better. But so much of what I read indicated that levodopa is an essential element of treatment, so I continued research. I was eventually led to a natural source of levodopa, Mucuna Pruriens, a tropical bean that’s loaded with the stuff. I found the concentrated powder that was recommended, passed printed copies of the most concise, readable, and peer-reviewed material I could find on the subject to my doctor, and began taking it at a very low dose about a week before I saw him so that I would have some experiential data to give him at our appointment.

For the first three or four days, Mucuna seemed to be having a good effect, but symptoms had been reducing for several weeks at that point, so it wasn’t easy to know for sure. By the time I saw my doctor, I was no longer absolutely certain as to its efficacy, but he agreed that it was worth a try.

October

I went to Bratislava. You’ve heard more about those two weeks than you ever wanted to, so suffice to say I continued taking Mucuna. However, because I traveled with an unopened package of a different brand, I may have been taking a different dose. Both powders were shown as 20:1 concentrations, but neither showed a percentage of levodopa by volume, so it was impossible to know how they compared.

November

First few days back home, I’d time doses of Mucuna to fall an hour or so before dinner or tea or whatever with friends; I wanted to feel my best. Ironically, I’d feel fine taking the dose, but by the time we were seated for dinner or tea or whatever, I would be trembling and stooped and robotic. I began to wonder if there was a correlation.

Last Friday

I decided to skip doses during the day, take a larger one at evening (at the suggestion of a medical friend), and see if that made a difference. It did; I was so beset by trembling and general discomfort, that I couldn’t sleep for hours.

Saturday

I started a break from Mucuna. For two days, the tremor was less frequent and less severe, my gait resolved itself almost immediately upon setting out for a walk, I was not entertained by the Goofies or the Slows, and my gestures didn’t feel as ridiculous.

Sunday Again

By evening I felt a bit “in orbit” while walking, that is, a sense of leaning forward as the earth moves away.

Monday (Today)

Being in orbit intensified, and began to feel dangerous. I re-read the paper on Mucuna. It mentions the difficulty in finding an optimum dose. It also mentions green tea as way of boosting the effect at low doses. Just before lunch I took a very small dose with green tea (probably about 75 mg). I went to visit Maria and was treated to her giving a lesson on the loom to a young customer.  Even so, I took another dose at about four. By eight I was feeling loose and walking well. I’ve felt lighter all day, agility has returned, and the right arm tremor and tightness have been slight. I plan to make the 8 pm dose the final one until morning so as not to risk my sleep.

Conclusion

No conclusions. Just for the record.

I’ve been told that medicating PD is a process of fine tuning. I’m still looking for the knob that switches between the CD player and the radio.

To be continued.

Report One – Patience

There is an expression in English I used to hear quite often – though not hearing it lately may merely be a factor of being away from my language base – “slowly but surely”. That’s my health report for the week; slowly but surely. The phrase is probably the closest we have in English to the Italian piano piano, which is used to counsel patience in any and all situations. To a native Californian whose supposed love of process is often feigned, both phrases qualify as statements of high philosophy.

When I first moved here, random waiting would make me silently crazy. Buy trousers at the market, they invariably need hemming. Text my tailor, make an appointment for day after tomorrow. Her kids have a special school program she just found out about, so two days after that? Measurements taken, pins inserted, they’ll be ready day after tomorrow. I forgot my dental appointment for day after tomorrow. No problem, come in the afternoon. Wait! my mother needs something, can you come after 16:00? Nope, I’m scheduled for a haircut. No problem, day after tomorrow. A week after my purchase I pick up my new trousers, the perfect length and only five euro for the alteration; what she had to cut off is included in the sack, “just in case”. I only had to wait.

I’ve long disdained the culture of instant gratification, but have here discovered that I am deeply imbued with its expectation.

People ask, how’s my health. I can honestly answer that I feel a little better every day. I can also honestly report that symptoms are reduced, across the board, by a tiny bit. And with total accuracy can say that I still feel goofy at various unpredictable times and levels. And that the question about my health confuses me if I think about it too much.

I also daily witness my impatience. I bought a treatment, and I want it to work, now. I can’t wear new pants with the hems half rolled or the extra fabric not removed, or with cuffs held in place by basting stitches, so why should I put up with partially gone symptoms?

Because life is not a pair of pants. And because I looked at my garden today, and was eager for the weather to improve so I could do some major cleanup, an eagerness that was not even theoretical before my journey to Bratislava. Eagerness is way better than lassitude.

When, while still in bed, I stretch after waking (one of the most gratifying actions of the day) for the past however many months, arms and legs would tremble. About a week ago, they stopped doing that. I’d forgotten what a pure stretch was like, and let me say it is even more delicious than a trembling one. Getting out of bed – and up from chairs and sofas – also became easier about two weeks ago, and slowly but surely that improvement continues. Now, I often don’t need to use my arms at all to get an initial lift. My voice is clear better than half the time. The right arm tremor goes away for hours at a stretch, not just sort of, but completely.

On that last subject, a process. This morning I finally returned to my meditation practice. It’s not that I didn’t try in Bratislava, but until the day before I left, I tended towards such fatigue that sitting to meditate inevitably led to a long nap. This morning, it led to meditation. At that point my arm was still quiet and relaxed a good hour after waking, unusual but not unheard of. As I glided down, the arm would occasionally express a desire to grow tense, but a bit of breath and mantra support guided it away from that wish; and I saw what a fine line there is between habit and symptom. The arm remained relaxed until after my Listening to Music class (which I was able to attend for the first time since March) and regained nearly full composure during a short nap awhile later.

In worldly life, I actually did buy new trousers and they will be ready November 9 – a week after purchase. Somewhere they are in process.

Piano piano.

I only have to wait.

Returning to Orvieto

Being in Orvieto again is like sliding into a warm bath after a long hike, all of it uphill.

Sunday was spent at the Vienna airport waiting from late morning for a five o’clock flight. I was thirsty all day, and early discovered a refreshing pomegranate tea at a food concession called Henry. The young people who rang customers out were all charming and kind. Over the course of five hours I returned thrice, and none of them was ever visibly at work a second time. They seemed to have the shortest shifts on record.

Sunday night, I stayed at a hotel called Isola Sacra in the town of Fiumicino. The staff there were also kind, but on longer shifts. For supper I ordered a pinsa; Roman-style pizza. When I order pizza here I always specify già tagliata, pre-cut, because I am not sufficiently practiced to cut my way through a pizza faster than it becomes cold. I forgot to ask, so, with apologies for my strange American preferences, requested of my waiter that the pinsa be returned to the kitchen and sliced into wedges. He moved the pinsa to the middle of the table and with astonishing speed divided it into bite-sized chunks, then to protect the crust, drained a teaspoon’s worth of juice onto a small plate.

When I had finished he put his arm around me;

– Did you enjoy it?

– It was delicious. And so easy to eat.

I felt strong and stable all day, a little goofy as it became apparent that I needed to eat, and strong again within a half hour of dining. Looking back towards Friday, my estimation on Sunday evening was that I could never have managed the weekend in Vienna with all its adventures, crowds, and unknowns even a week earlier.

Since returning to Orvieto, my days have been filled with home chores, walking, and visits. In my house, where a muscle memory of every awkward corner, low sofa, and coordination challenge is very much alive, I am able to compare in detail how well I function now with my performance before Bratislava. Though movement is not perfectly free or without its jolts and difficulties, the increased fluidity is profound and undeniable.

While walking the town’s cobblestones, coming into gait still takes five or ten minutes, but the warm up is not as clumsy, and once warm, maintaining the gait takes less attention and effort than it did three weeks ago. In fact, I have to be cautious not to assume I can behave as if all were perfectly well. I sometimes feel so free I’m tempted to forget that waltzing and jumping jacks are not soon within the realm of likely pursuits.

And I have energy. Energy to go all day with only a brief nap. Energy to walk the length of the town on errands, return home to empty my shopping bag, hang laundry, and go out and walk it again. I haven’t been able to claim that much stamina for at least a year.

But despite a respite of a week or so ago, lower back pain returns – more localized, even lower down, and more specific as to what movement triggers it. I saw Michele the Shiatsu Genius today. He gave a treatment exactly sensitive to what is going on. After previous sessions he had warned that the pain might increase for a day or two before the back felt better, and I asked if that would be the case this time.

– Probably not. Your body was much more receptive to the treatment. I’m convinced now that the problem is in your intestine. An unbalanced gut and lower back pain are often associated.

I may be on the right track.

Since Sunday, the Theatrical Light Cue metaphor seems to hold, though the count towards execution feels awfully slow. Some of that perceived slowness is also my impatience to know how the threads of the plot come together. As a director I’m used to knowing the outcome of every story I tell, even before the work on it begins. Here, I’m compelled to follow, observe, and wait. Like any good story, there are also twists and turns and reversals. And like many good stories, there are ambiguities along with the revelations.

The sixteen days in Bratislava was almost a silent retreat. Outside of this blog, I spoke barely fifty words a day. I used my voice so seldom, in fact, that it became a throaty whisper. Vocal degeneration is a symptom of PD, so I was happily surprised on Monday, when I had friends to speak with (and frankly overdid it) that the voice came back. By Tuesday afternoon it was relaxed and full, but by evening it was starting to tire. Today was vocally much more moderate, and by evening my voice sounded more familiar than it has for a long time.

This is the last of the daily posts, for now. I will write periodic updates as things unfold, at least one a week. Thank you for reading, and for your interest. It has been enormously helpful to have had this conversation.

I hope the bones of this report may prove helpful to others contemplating a healing alternative.

 

Cafe Society

Yesterday, after writing this blog, I took a short nap. Upon waking, I realized that in the age of Trip Advisor, I needn’t be heartbroken about not finding a Real Viennese Cafe, I need just look one up and go there. I found one that sounded promising, and only twenty minutes travel, so I set out to find it. The route required I change from underground to tram at Karlsplatz/Oper. I came up to street level directly in front of the opera house in all its Italianate splendor – so why not?

Last night, an opera by Giuseppe Verdi called Simon Boccanegra. My very shallow knowledge of opera did not include this one, but before I could find where to inquire about tickets, one of the men in Mozart coats approached me. In a few masterly strokes, he convinced me to buy a ticket for a concert at the Haus der Musik. As it turned out, I could not have afforded a night at the opera, so fine. I had two hours to search out Herr Schnitzler.

First, I sought the Haus der Musik, located on a narrow side street between Karlsplatz and Stephanplatz. A side street with several cafes. None of them were old enough to have actually seen Schnitzler as a client, but one was paneled in dark wood and promised snacks. They also closed in a half hour.

– Are you still serving snacks?

– No, sorry, just pastry, drinks, and ice cream.

She took me to the pastry case where I pointed to a cake topped with walnuts.

– I’ll do it backwards tonight, first dessert, then supper. She smiled. The cake was excellent.

I wandered in search of a cafe with snacks. Opposite a construction site on another side street was an establishment that had the patina of genuine Vienna, albeit from the 1950’s, but had Arthur lived so long, I could imagine him an habitué. The two brothers who served were so kind. One delivered a menu.

– We close in a half hour, so we’re only serving coffee and cake.

What the heck, I’ll have apple strudel.

– With cream or without?

– With!

He smiled. He understood. Tourist in Vienna, indulge in cholesterol for one night. The strudel was not too sweet, a lovely layering of apples three inches high with enough whipped cream to fill a small bucket. It was accompanied by a decaf cappuccino with a glorious mound of stiffly steamed milk, cup and saucer on a small silver tray, glass of water next to it, demitasse spoon balanced across the glass. My heartache was cured.

After a post-strudel wander, it was time for the concert. Haus der Musik appears to be a well-funded museum and educational institution, though I can’t quite figure out who they teach. The concert was of a variety of works by Viennese composers, or by ones who spent significant time here, and was performed by a group called the Imperial Classic Orchestra. You had to squint your ears to imagine them an orchestra. They were a string quintet and piano playing music composed for at least forty pieces. My educational moment was understanding for the first time that chamber music is specifically structured to sound full and resonant played by few instruments. They were good, but the sound felt thin and far away. There were four singers of various abilities, and two dancers no one behind the first row could really see. The room, ultra modern and apparently designed for sound studio acoustics, was packed and stuffy, and the 120 or so of audience had to be ferried up and down four floors via a glass elevator that carried fifteen. It was not unpleasant, but neither was it a dazzling musical night in Vienna. Given the air quality, I was happiest for its relative brevity.

The night was refreshing. On the way back to Karlsplatz I noticed the Opera Cafe. There is a place where Schnitzler could have habituated. Elegant, vast, it was open until midnight. I checked the menu. The prices were the same, or less, than the places I’d been to. Alright. Maybe next time.

 

Arriving in Vienna

Today, I went into Vienna central city. I know it doesn’t really matter, but I’m sick of my clothes. I’m especially sick of the clothes I packed for Bratislava and laundered repeatedly while in Bratislava. I feel like I look a run-down old man. So when I fell in behind a fellow, probably in his forties, in Hauptbanoff who was about my height and sporting a wonderful long cardigan over yellow-khaki trousers, I inwardly yearned for that sweater. Throw in the trousers, I’d like them, too. In fact, given that I was only steps into the day and still a little goofy, I called to him silently – can I just be you for the day; a clear voice, a solid gait, that sweater and those pants. The hair and the beard? Okay, I get it, full package or nothing. Fine. Just for a few hours in Vienna.

He apparently didn’t hear my inward scream and stopped at a bank machine. I went on to the U1.

The three ticket machines jammed into a corner had an even larger crowd lined up to use them than there was last night. But this morning, more alert and not at all hungry, I noticed written above the machines, “Get Your Ticket Online – WienMobil” I signed up then and there and had one of those squares full of squiggly lines on my phone within minutes. Not getting my way with the sweater was beginning to seem less important.

With increasing confidence, I strode (after a fashion) to the platforms, found a perfectly understandable sign with what stations lay in which direction, and joined the crowd waiting for the train toward Stephanplatz. As a trained and experienced New Yorker, I quickly sized up the situation and strode (with much more confidence this time) to the more sparsely populated end of the platform. The train arrived, and I could have scored a seat, but I graciously allowed other, older riders to have them instead. I was bound for adventure.

Stephanplatz is smack in the middle of the commercial district. The church it is named after is half covered with scaffold, as are many of the major historic sites. So good. Conservation is a good thing. I set out for an imperial-scale wander.

Now, my one goal for Vienna (if you don’t count lack of urinary emergencies, and let’s not) was to find a charming cafe that served real Viennese pastry and great coffee. I wanted to imagine that I was hanging out with the ghost of Arthur Schnitzler, an accomplished Viennese playwright of the late nineteenth century. It would be on a side street, paneled in walnut, cafe curtains in the window, marble topped tables with cast iron bases. The pastries would be as one can only find in Vienna, heavy with Schlagsahne und Schokolade. I would spend an hour there watching the locals promenade.

But first, I visited the imperial quarter. About fifty thousand others had found it before me. Turns out October 26 is the Austrian National Holiday. It celebrates an act of parliament passed in 1955 declaring Austria’s permanent neutrality. The imperial plazas, most of them, were filled with booths, stages, and displays. And good Austrians.

I passed a gate to the relatively empty Volksgarten and wandered in. It contains a huge rose garden perfectly cared for, with monumental views of the buildings of empire. The city fairly shouts wealth and power. The empire for which it was the center may have been the largest, stable European state since the fall of Rome (this is a fascinating new look at the Hapsburgs) and it made sure to leave visitors with a lasting impression. But the cafes I’d seen to this point were steel and glass enclosures on wide streets with hundred of customers. Schnitzler’s ghost was nowhere in sight.

So I wandered until I got lost. I had lunch at a place call La Sosta (Italians Do It Better). I ordered a caprese, which true to form, was exactly as large as its small plate, which meant the first few tomatoes were cut with surgical precision so as not to grace my lap with an unwanted splurp. I wandered the great squares filled with thickening crowds. I scurried down corridors of stately buildings, gleamingly white and cream, but found no purveyors of pastry, anywhere. Around two, my feet were tired so I turned towards whence I’d come, recognized enough landmarks to make my way to the underground, and was soon at Hauptbanhoff.

Central Vienna is impressively clean and well-organized, but I could not find anything that would really qualify as a side street, let alone one where I could find Schnitzler musing over coffee upon the amorous proclivities of his contemporaries. Deep inside I was heartbroken.

Then, waiting to cross the street towards the hotel, there in front of me was the man with the sweater. He’d doffed it – the weather had grown warmer – and threaded it through the straps of his pack, but it was undoubtedly him and undoubtedly the sweater. It was as if I had been him for the day, but never noticed until we had separated again at Hauptbanoff.

I have to look up a photo of Arthur Schnitzler. You never know.

* * *

Amici, scusate ancora.  Sono all’aeroporto a Vienna.  Forse sarebbe un traduzione di Google un po’ avanti della settimana.

TRANSPLANT TEN (the last) – THE STRESS FACTOR

I actually had a problem getting to sleep last night, didn’t nap all day, and barely ate until supper. Those are kind of good things given, that until about Wednesday, my body was wondering what truck it had walked in front of.

I took my final journey to the clinic feeling pretty chipper. The Goofies were off playing pinochle and drinking Jack Daniels for most of the day. Now and then they would rouse themselves, grouse onto stage, go through the steps of their dance routine and drag themselves back to the card table, but their hearts clearly were not into it. The Slows never appeared at all – until mid-afternoon.

After my final visit to the clinic, I made it back to the apartment in record time, and a good thing that was because check out is noon. But I’d been up early, packed well, put the dishwasher to run, and was out the door by 11:40. Yesterday I scouted the route to the bus station, so I could find one most comfortable. I arrived in time for the 12;10 bus to Vienna, didn’t anticipate having to buy tickets on the Flixbus app, but was able to get the app, buy the ticket, and make the 12:40.

Once in Austria, the bus passes vast wind farms. Quite beautiful.

The bus took us to Vienna Hauptbanhoff, brand spanking new, all corporate polished stone and glass. The place I’d rented was about a kilometer away, an enterprise called Smart Apart Living. Expedia sent me the itinerary. Check in hours are 14:00 to 05:30, and late check in was by special arrangement. Late check in after 5:30 in the morning? Okay. The itinerary also noted that there was “no front desk.” The place in Bratislava also has no front desk, but that meant you go to a central office for check in and they order a (free) cab to take you to site.

Here it meant a machine.

PD and stress are great pals. They encourage each other, egg one another on. Plus, operating on Ivanna’s liturgy – some things will be more pronounced, other things will fade. Despite my trying to push events in the direction of The Long Light Cue, there is still an element of Boston Rush Hour. Perhaps it’s a light cue in a play about a Boston rush hour? But I digress. My voice; barely audible today. I identify strongly with my voice, and hate when it gets like this. Oh, and yeah. Stress.

I will not go – cannot go – into the whole machine saga, mostly because I don’t want to relive it, not even for you. Enough to say that to sign in one needs a reservation number, and Expedia did not provide it. I printed out everything sent me, and saved it to my phone, and scoured both seven or eight times. They did send me a number for “customer service” at the “hotel”. If you think those quotes foreshadow, you are correct. Every cliché parody of a customer service rep from hell played out over the next half hour. The only reason the calls ended at all was because my phone’s battery gave up its charge and mercifully switched me off. What the episode did not lead to was my getting into my room. Some of it was dumb stuff on my part, but the stress came from a woman on line who knew more about what I was not doing right than anyone previously born.

I went across the street to a cafe, asked if anyone spoke English. The owner said he did.

– Any recommendations for a good hotel in the area? He pointed across the street, I cut him off. Any others?

– Go towards Hauptbanhoff.

– Okay. So I did, found nothing, circled around, tried using Siri (I somehow still had a 7% charge… that was a slip, I mean, my phone did). Siri suggested three places that didn’t, as far as I could discover, exist on the physical plane, all within 60 meters and under two minutes. At some point I decided that I was too hungry to keep this up, so went back to the cafe.

– English menu, please. I can’t hunt hotels on an empty stomach. Oh, and is there a way I could plug in my phone somewhere, it…

– No. No place. Sorry.

So, I took my theoretical business to a theoretical elsewhere.

Turns out I’d not gone far enough towards Hauptbanhoff. There is a sizable hotel directly across, so I went in. Just seeing an expanse of lobby with leatherette upholstered chairs made me tear up. There were actual visible people behind the counter, lovely people who did not blame me for not having found a room before they issued me a key card.

I arrived in Vienna at 13:50. I inserted the key to my room at 16:45. Stress and PD are pals.

One of the clerks provided me with a map and directions on how to get into central city; only three stops on the 1 line.

– Great! And how do you buy tickets?

– Tickets? Oh, well, there are machines.

I went up, tried to shower the stress away, partially succeeded. I waited for my phone to charge. The waterproof jacket I was burdened with all sunny day long while wearing a short-sleeved polo shirt underneath, now had slick/soggy sleeve linings, so I spend some productive time using a hair dryer on them. Then reeling from hunger, I headed into town.

Signs in German, tons of people, suddenly I’m at the gate area for the number one subway. I look around. Three ticket machines tucked into a corner surrounded by people with suitcases, maybe sixty of them. I couldn’t figure out which direction the three stops would be in, and after seeing the Viennese outer districts, had no desire to visit them further, so I went back to the square I’d entered from and to a restaurant across the street.

Is it the PD, or is a certain style of food served in ways that makes it deliberately difficult to maneuver into your mouth? A tiny bowl of salad heaped with things that need cutting, but no room to cut them in. That was the appetizer for three large pieces of batter-cooked chicken. Pick a piece up to eat it, the batter all falls off, try to cut it, you have chunks of meat too big for your mouth and the batter all falls off anyway. But my waiter was so dear I wanted to ask him to be my grandson.

* * *

Scusi, niente d’italiano oggi. Troppo stress.

 

TRANSPLANT NINE (of ten) – A Corner Turned?

The difficulty with assessing progress (or positive change), since transplants began on the 14th, has been that I was so dang tired the first week here, and so constantly hungry, that when, on Monday of this week, I had a spark of energy separate from a meal, I didn’t know what to make of it. Did I feel better than on Sunday? Sure, I didn’t have to take three hour naps. Did it feel like progress? I didn’t know. In the moment, the fatigue and hunger were such steps away from vibrant health, could recovering some of the energy I had before the transplants began truthfully be called progress?

Then on Tuesday, there was a hint of something more than simply not being wiped out all the time. And on Wednesday (yesterday), that hint came more into focus. Today, I feel like I’ve turned a corner. Yesterday, to hope still seemed a bit foolish. I worked all day to convince myself that I could summon the courage to hope. Today, hope presents itself as a rational choice.

– So, how do you feel?

– Like all the symptoms are reduced.

– Wonderful.

– Not gone, I don’t feel a hundred precent well, but the difference is notable and undeniable.

– And keeping the microbiome healthy, you will notice a difference for weeks and months ahead.

I asked Ivanna about diet.

– It is better that you don’t make a big change in your diet. Except, make sure your meals are made of the freshest, least processed, ingredients possible. But if you are vegetarian, keep being a vegetarian. If you love meat, keep eating meat. Just choose the highest quality. Then if what you want to eat changes, let those feelings alter your diet.

– That’s great. I’m really going to miss this routine; my apartment, the walk, how kind you have all been, the fascination of watching my body as it adjusts and swings into balance, maybe even heals. It’s been amazing.

– If you take good care of the intestinal microbiome, take the supplements for the next three months, you should not have to return to Bratislava except for a friendly visit. But if, say after two years, you feel yourself going down, do not hesitate to come back for a five-transplant series. They will have a stronger and even more rapid effect than you’ve had this time. I’m so happy for you! These improvements are so strong and so early, they should continue. You may see problems disappear that we didn’t think we were treating.

If as of yesterday the Long Light Cue was at 70%, today it feels like 50%. What’s that? Excuse me, the board op wants a word. Oh, uh-huh, okay. She says the cue is at 63%, that I’m letting my imagination run away with itself. That’s why I’m a director, and that’s why she’s a technician. Fine, if this is only 63%, I will only look forward that much more keenly to what’s coming.

The final transplant is tomorrow morning, then I have to run like a bunny back to my apartment so I can check out by noon. Then I walk to the bus station, go into Vienna, and check in to another apartment there. I’ll have all day Saturday to take in the remains of Viennese Imperial Culture. Or at least to give it a glance and order a Linzertorte.

When I made those plans three weeks ago, an enjoyable day at large in Vienna sounded as unlikely a possibility as I could imagine – but I made an investment in hope and booked it anyway. This past Monday, I was sure I’d made a mistake. Last night, I was still apprehensive. This morning, I’m confident I can at least manage it, and confidence is growing that by Saturday I’ll be in fit enough form to actually enjoy it.

Maybe I’m just a fool, but what else is new?

The Fecal Microbiota Transplant for PD, MS, Crohn’s, Alzheimers, autism (and maybe even RA) is still an experimental procedure. There’s no guarantee that it will work. If it does work, there’s no knowing how well or how quickly. The improvements I am experiencing now may someday “go down” again. The PD symptoms may never entirely disappear. But so far, I am greatly encouraged. I will keep this blog active on a daily basis through this weekend, then periodically until the new year, to report on how boldly that encouragement continues.

The clinic in Bratislava is partnered with Taymount Clinic in the UK, that also has partners in British Columbia and the Bahamas. The treatments carry little to no risk. They are not unpleasant or painful. (And I am not a medical professional.) Just saying.

* * *

TRAPIANTO NOVE (di dieci) – Viene girato un angolo?

La difficoltà con la valutazione dei progressi (o cambiamenti positivi), dal momento che il trapianto ha iniziato il 14 ° , è stata che ero così benedetto stanco la prima settimana qui, e così costantemente affamati, che quando ho avuto una scintilla di energia separati da un pasto, il lunedì di questa settimana, non sapevo cosa farsene. Mi sono sentito meglio di domenica? Certo, non ho dovuto fare tre sonnellini. Ti è sembrato un progresso? Non lo sapevo. Al momento, la fatica e la fame erano così lontani da una salute vibrante, il recupero di parte dell’energia che avevo prima che i trapianti iniziassero in realtà poteva essere chiamato progresso?

Poi martedì, c’era un accenno di qualcosa di più che semplicemente non essere spazzato via tutto il tempo. E mercoledì (ieri), quel suggerimento è diventato più focalizzato. Oggi mi sento come se avessi girato un angolo. Ieri sperare sembrava ancora un po’ sciocco. Ho lavorato tutto il giorno per convincermi che avrei potuto evocare il coraggio di sperare. Oggi la speranza si presenta come una scelta razionale.

– Allora, come ti senti?

– Come tutti i sintomi sono ridotti.

– Meraviglioso.

– Non sparito, non mi sento bene al cento per cento, ma la differenza è notevole e innegabile.

– E mantenendo sano la microbioma, noterai una differenza per settimane e mesi a venire.

Ho chiesto a Ivanna della dieta.

– È meglio che non apporti grandi cambiamenti alla tua dieta. Tranne, assicurati che i tuoi pasti siano fatti con gli ingredienti più freschi, meno elaborati possibili. Ma se sei vegetariano, continua ad essere vegetariano. Se ami la carne, continua a mangiare carne. Basta scegliere la massima qualità. Quindi se ciò che vuoi mangiare cambia, lascia che quei sentimenti modifichino la tua dieta.

– Fantastico. Mi mancherà davvero questa routine; il mio appartamento, la passeggiata, quanto siete stati gentili, il fascino di guardare il mio organismo mentre si regola e si trova un equilibrio, forse addirittura guarisce. È stato fantastico.

– Se ti prendi cura della microbioma intestinale, prendi gli integratori per i prossimi tre mesi, non dovresti tornare a Bratislava se non per una visita amichevole. Ma se, diciamo dopo due anni, ti senti cadere, non esitare a tornare per una serie di cinque trapianti. Avranno un effetto più forte e persino più rapido di quello che hai avuto questa volta. Sono così felice per te! Questi miglioramenti sono così forti e così precoci che dovrebbero continuare. Potresti vedere scomparire i problemi che non pensavamo di trattare.

Se da ieri il Long Light Cue era al 70%, oggi sembra al 50%. Cos’è quello? Mi scusi, la operatore delle luci vuole una parola. Oh, eh, okay. Dice che il segnale è al 63%, che sto lasciando scappare la mia immaginazione con se stesso. Ecco perché sono un regista, ed è per questo che lei è un tecnico. Bene, se questo è solo il 63%, non vedo l’ora che arrivi molto di più.

Il trapianto finale è domani mattina, quindi devo correre come un coniglio al mio appartamento, così posso fare il check-out entro mezzogiorno. Poi vado alla stazione degli autobus, vado a Vienna e arrivo in un altro appartamento lì. Sabato avrò tutto il giorno per ammirare i resti della cultura imperiale viennese. O almeno per dare un’occhiata e ordinare un Linzertorte.

Quando ho fatto quei piani tre settimane fa, una piacevole giornata a Vienna mi è sembrata un’improbabile possibilità che potessi immaginare, ma ho fatto un investimento nella speranza e l’ho prenotato comunque. Lunedì scorso, ero sicuro di aver fatto un errore. Ieri sera ero ancora preoccupato. Stamattina, sono fiducioso di riuscire almeno a gestirlo, e la fiducia sta crescendo che entro sabato sarò abbastanza in forma per godermi davvero.

Forse sono solo uno sciocco, ma cos’altro c’è di nuovo?

Il trapianto di microbiota fecale per PD, SM, Crohn, Alzheimer, autismo (e forse anche RA) è ancora una procedura sperimentale. Non c’è garanzia che funzionerà. Se funziona, non si sa quanto bene o quanto velocemente. I miglioramenti che sto sperimentando ora potrebbero un giorno “ridursi” di nuovo. I sintomi del PD potrebbero non scomparire mai del tutto. Ma finora, sono fortemente incoraggiato. Terrò attivo questo blog su base giornaliera durante questo fine settimana, quindi periodicamente fino al nuovo anno, per riferire su quanto audacemente continua l’incoraggiamento.

La clinica di Bratislava è partner di Taymount Clinic nel Regno Unito, con compagne nel British Columbia e Bahamas. I trattamenti comportano poco o nessun rischio. Non sono spiacevoli o dolorosi. (E non sono un medico.) Sto solo dicendo.

TRANSPLANT EIGHT (of ten) – Comedy Tonight

There is a too well-known, very modern, opera called PD – The Symptoms. The staging, all in shades of grey and white with accents of polished copper, requires legions of well-costumed bodies, many of whom simply look good and move their mouths to the music. Those are called supernumeraries. They are only ever noticed by the director if they are absent or distracting, or mentioned by critics if they are astonishingly bad.

Three of these mute characters that populate the opera in question are Excess Saliva (no further description necessary), The Sandman Cometh (thimble-fulls of sand in eyes upon waking), and Sticky Fingers George (a change in body oils that, among other things, makes it tedious to use a trackpad). Sometime during the last few days, all three have gone missing. The twelve-tonalities of the music surge on, unaffected, and the stage manager has been on a binge, so no one noticed until now. Their whereabouts remains a mystery. If you have information leading to their safe return, keep it to yourself.

This morning, Ivanna repeated what by now has become a liturgical tract down at the clinic.

– Some symptoms will reduce, others will become more pronounced. This is not just the usual fluctuations evident in PD, it is your body at work, sorting things out.

Okay, she didn’t say it exactly like that, but that’s what she meant. As is frequently the case with liturgical repetition, the listener has the opportunity to hear nuances previously missed. In this case, Ivanna delivered the lesson for me.

– That there is movement, and movement this early in the process, is a very positive thing. Observe it, care for it, be still.

So, on my walk home I reflected upon her lesson in light of the recent disappearance of three, exceedingly minor, cast members of PD – The Symptoms. I’ve been working on a general fade to black, the whole damn company plunged into darkness, to be followed by the opera’s being deemed a failure and relegated to obscurity forevermore. Why am I not encouraged by the walkout of three performers who see the writing on the wall; this show stinks, let’s get out of here while we can, and before we become associated with a flop? Well, because, maybe they’ll miss their measly paycheck and sneak back on some night. Or the stage manager will sober up and replace them. Or maybe… maybe I’m afraid of being labeled a cockeyed optimist.

By whom, exactly? Well, by everyone reading this, now that I’ve announced the departure of three supers to the world. But so what? Where three can walk, others can follow. Maybe when the execution of the light cue is finally complete, the stage will fall dark with no one upon it. That may be no more than a consummation devoutly to be wished, but why not dream?

Man is but an ass if he go about to expound this dream. Methought I was—there is no man can tell what. Methought I was, and methought I had—but man is but a patched fool if he will offer to say what methought I had. The eye of man hath not heard, the ear of man hath not seen, man’s hand is not able to taste, his tongue to conceive, nor his heart to report what my dream was.

The long light cue now stands at 70% of full. The Goofies have taken center stage. They have a spectacularly boring dance routine with The Slows, so need extra illumination. Their light will fade, too – just a bit later than the rest. Thing is, there were no production or design meetings, I’ve never seen a script, and the conductor and librettist are vague about the ending. But my best theatrical instinct says that this crazy atonal score belongs to a comedy, and comedy ends well.  In this case, especially if the stage at the grand finale is dark and deserted.

Hold for laughs.

But even if it is a comedy, when the reviews come out, I’m betting on their being so bad that no one ever has the bright idea of ever producing this turkey, ever again. And if there is a perverse interest, I’ll speak out against it,  I’ll tell potential producers to see Ivanna before they get in too deep, no matter how much backing they think they might have.

I’m stuck like a dope
With a thing called hope,
And I can’t get it out of my heart.

Forget twelve-tone opera. Give me Rogers & Hammerstein.

* * *

TRAPIANTO OTTO (di dieci) — Stasera, la Commedia

C’è un’opera troppo nota, molto moderna, chiamata PD – The Symptoms. La messa in scena, tutto nei toni del grigio e del bianco con accenti di rame lucido, richiede legioni di corpi ben vestiti, molti dei quali semplicemente sembrano belli e muovono la bocca sulla musica. Questi sono chiamati soprannumerari. Vengono notati dal regista solo se sono assenti o che distraggono, o menzionati dalla critica se sono sorprendentemente cattivi.

Tre di questi personaggi muti che popolano l’opera in questione sono la Saliva in eccesso (non sono necessarie ulteriori descrizioni), The Sandman Cometh (ditale pieno di sabbia negli occhi al risveglio) e Sticky Fingers Giorgio (un cambiamento negli oli per la pelle che, tra l’altro cose, rende noioso usare un trackpad). Qualche volta negli ultimi giorni, tutti e tre sono scomparsi. Le dodici-tonalità della musica sono inalterate e il direttore del palcoscenico è su una sbronza, quindi nessuno se ne è accorto fino ad ora. La loro posizione rimane un mistero. Se disponi di informazioni che portano al loro ritorno sicuro, tienile per te.

Questa mattina, Ivanna ha ripetuto quello che ormai è diventato un tratto liturgico in clinica.

– Alcuni sintomi ridurranno, altri diventeranno più pronunciati. Non sono solo le solite fluttuazioni evidenti nel PD, è il tuo organismo al lavoro, che risolve le cose.

Okay, non l’ha detto esattamente così, ma era quello che intendeva dire. Come spesso accade con la ripetizione liturgica, l’ascoltatore ha l’opportunità di capire sfumature precedentemente mancate. In questo caso, Ivanna ha tenuto la lezione per me.

– Che ci sia movimento, e movimento così presto nel processo, è una cosa molto positiva. Osservalo, abbi cura di lui, stai tranquillo.

Quindi, mentre tornavo a casa, ho riflettuto sulla sua lezione alla luce della recente scomparsa di tre membri del cast di PD – The Symptoms , estremamente minori . Ho lavorato su una dissolvenza generale in nero, l’intera dannata compagnia è precipitata nell’oscurità, a cui ha fatto seguito l’opera considerata un fallimento e relegata ad un vuoto per sempre. Perché non sono incoraggiato dalla sciopero di tre artisti che vedono la scritta sul muro; questo show puzza, usciamo da qui mentre possiamo e prima di diventare associati ad un flop? Beh, perché, forse, perderanno la loro misera busta paga e torneranno di nascosto qualche notte. Oppure il direttore di scena sarà sobrio e li sostituirà. O forse … forse ho paura di essere etichettato come un ottimista stravagamte.

Da chi, esattamente? Allora, da tutti quelli che leggono questo, ora che ho annunciato la partenza di tre cene al mondo. Ma allora? Dove tre possono camminare, altri possono seguire. Forse quando l’esecuzione della stecca della luce è finalmente completa, il palcoscenico si oscura senza nessuno. Potrebbe non essere altro che una consumazione devotamente da desiderare, ma perché non sognare?

L’uomo è solo un asino se sta per esporre questo sogno. Pensavo che fossi … non c’è nessun uomo in grado di dire cosa. Pensavo di essere e pensavo di averlo fatto, ma l’uomo non è che un idiota se si offrirà di dire ciò che ho pensato. L’occhio dell’uomo non ha sentito, l’orecchio dell’uomo non ha visto, la mano dell’uomo non è in grado di assaggiare, la sua lingua di concepire, né il suo cuore di riferire quale fosse il mio sogno. 

Il segnale luminoso lungo ora è al 70% del pieno. I Goofies hanno preso il centro della scena. Hanno una routine di danza incredibilmente noiosa con The Slows, quindi hanno bisogno di ulteriore illuminazione. Anche la loro luce svanirà; solo un po ‘più tardi rispetto al resto. Il fatto è che non ci sono stati incontri di produzione o di design, non ho mai visto una sceneggiatura e il regista e il drammaturgo sono vaghi per il finale. Ma la mia migliore intuizione teatrale dice che questo pazzo punteggio atonale appartiene a una commedia, e la commedia conclude bene.

Aspetta per ridere.

Ancora è una commedia, quando usciranno le recensioni, spero che siano cattive in modo che nessuno abbia mai la brillante idea di produrre di nuovo questo tacchino. E se c’è ancora interesse, parlerò contro di esso.  Convincerò i potenziali produttori a vedere Ivanna, indipendentemente dal sostegno che pensano di avere.

I’m stuck like a dope
With a thing called hope,
And I can’t get it out of my heart.

Dimentica l’opera a dodici toni. Dammi Rogers e Hammerstein.